![]() Outrunner motors has the magnets spaced around the outside of the motor in a bell shaped casing, and this bell shaped casing spins. Inrunner and Outrunner indicates what part of the motor turns, Inrunner has a narrow magnetic armature inside the motor that turns and tends to be a fairly compact setup well suited to RC cars. Posting from my phone at work will try to upload pics later I would love to add some Wheel weights in the stock wheels but don't feel like messing with glue on tires. ![]() Trucks runs great with all stock parts and just DIY free mods. Looking at Hot Racing Aluminum front knuckles for Losi MRC other possible upgrade parts from new ECX Doomsday Scalerfab Steel front and rear bumpers and rock sliders Bluebird Low Profile Brushless High Torque Servo Hot Racing 12t steel 48p 1/8 pinion gear Punisher Steel 100-130mm Center drive shafts 5mm output RC4WD 80mm Ultimate Scale Internal Spring Shocks Traxxas Mini E-Revo front pinion for overdrive mod Brass 13 and 14t Pinion Gear (No longer using as I found and ordered a hot Racing steel 12t one) Traxxas Titan 380 Motor (no longer using as I have found and ordered the Axial 380 40t motor out of the yeti Jr) Parts I have ordered and recieved but not installed yet: $69 and not as much Torque as the $25 Power HD LW20MG I was going to use but oh well. You will not be able to run a full size Servo however but I have found a low profile high Torque Servo on that I have coming in the mail to test. This give me good clearance and the most amount of flex, astronomically more than stock. I have since inboarded the shocks again and moved the upper mount point to the lowest hole on all 4 shocks. Perhaps if you are doing mostly trail driving and not rock crawling this will be fine for you but so far I have been doing mostly technical rock crawling and the limited flex up front with oitboarded shocks was unexceptable. Even if properly spaced out so the shocks are straight up and down and not at a V, the tire will still hit the Outboarded shock fairly quickly and be prone to tipovers. The Outboard shock mod isn't a great mod imho because you lose a lot of flex in the front and it's not even close. rewired to deans to use my 7.4v Airsoft batteries removed leds (This gave me tons of more run time on the stock battery it was ridiculous) This eliminated the tire rub in the front. Mounted front bumper as close as possible, and cut everything off outside of the shackle mounts on both sides. Moved front bumper one out (I DO NOT RECOMMEND) Made front bumper very flimsy and ended up snapping it off. Trimmed rear driveshaft (roughly 1/2", make sure you smooth edges after cut) threadlocked the set screw in cvd's (I think that's the right term) Raised body posts and cut off extra (I'm mounted on the 4th hole from top, it's rather high but that's the lowest I could go without having rubbing issues with fender and tire) ![]() Flipped crossmember mounts for battery and electronics ![]() Then I lucked out was able to snag one off Amazon on Prime Day for $68! By then I had also read just about every forum thread on this site and others and very YouTube video on the Barrage and had compiled a parts/to do list for this little truck. Co-worker of mine had a RGT Rock Cruiser and I really enjoyed driving it around the Little Rock pile we made at work so I was eying up the ECX Barrage. Wassup guys first time poster here and first hobby grade rc truck. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |